New Jacket!

I have recently finished a jacket, Burda 7304, and it turned out really well.Burda 7304 I took the time and effort to do everything the way it was meant to be done. I had my first attempt at bound buttonholes, though I did a practice buttonhole first to make sure I wasn’t going to screw it up. I wasn’t sure if I could pull these off, but gave it a go anyway, not because I am a huge keener (that is debatable) but because my old beast of a machine does not make particularly elegant buttonholes and I didn’t want the final step on the lovely jacket to be Fubar Buttonholes, thereby ruining the whole thing.

So, here is the jacket:

 

jacket front

jacket front

jacket back

jacket back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fabric is vintage yardage that I scored in a thrift shop, black and grey almost-houndstooth-weave wool (I’m fairly certain it’s 100% wool). I lined it with grey rayon Bemberg lining. I used a heavy sew-in interfacing on the lapels and collar, which I hand-stitched allover to the fabric with long catching stitches (invisible from right side). I made the buttonholes before that piece was sewn to anything else. Luckily I had enough extra fabric to cut another piece if I messed that one up (I didn’t though). I cut little patches of fabric on the bias and machine basted them to the right front piece. (The patches are on the right side.)

buttonhole facings

On the wrong side, I stitched them about 3/16″ on each side from the center buttonhole cutting line, securing the ends of stitching (starting and stopping exactly where marked). Then I cut open the buttonholes through both layers with a punch (it’s like a chisel, don’t use scissors), poked the patches through to the wrong side, and folded them so that they make the bindings, and basted everything in place. I basted the buttonholes all shut until the jacket was finished.

bound buttonholes basted closed

bound buttonholes basted closed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

buttonholes seen from facing side

buttonholes seen from facing side


 

 

 

Once the jacket was further assembled, I made the matching buttonholes on the facing, but used pieces of lining fabric to bind the edges.

 

 

pleated shoulder

pleated shoulder

 

 
One thing I love about this jacket is the shoulder detail. It is so awesomely vintage-looking.
These were some crazy-looking pattern pieces for the sleeves, it was actually really cool when they get all folded and basted up and then presto! it turns into this amazing shape. That piece in the foreground is a part of the sleeve.
I’ve been sewing a lot lately, I have a ton a fabric in my stash that I am trying to use. I made some nice skirts as well, I’ll show those next.

sleeve piece

sleeve piece

One comment to “New Jacket!”

  1. 1

    On November 27th, 2012 at 2:10 pm, Marnie said...

    Love it! That is some fancy pants shoulder detailing. I have really straight shoulders so I couldn’t pull them off but I love the look.